It’s startling to realise, when Amiens’ cathedral is lit up at nightfall through December and from mid-June to mid-September, that this how its facade looked in medieval times – a veritable sea of colour. But any time of year, whether it’s illuminated or not, you could spend hours studying the facade's extraordinary sculptures depicting scenes of everyday vices and virtues.

 

Transfixed by the cathedral, few visitors discover the quaint cobbled streets with half-timbered houses that lie behind it. Here too, a small park leads you down to St Leu, where watermills stood in the Middle Ages. These days it’s home to a Saturday market selling produce from the hortillonnages (floating gardens you can explore on a barge trip). 

 

Another unmissable market is the covered Halles du Beffroi, oozing French art de vivre, but also be sure to stop off at Douceurs et Gourmandises for artisan macaroons to slip into your case, and Marott’street pub, a listed historic monument with Art Deco interiors.

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