Black statues rising from the landscape are the first sign that Oulches-la-Vallée-Foulon is something other than farmland as far as the eye can see. Monuments to Senegalese soldiers who fought for France, they announce your arrival at the striking modern building that houses the Caverne du Dragon (the Dragons Lair).

Step inside and you’ll find displays about World War I in the region. But the real reason to come lies below the building, in the form of a three-hectare limestone quarry. Once mined to build the creamy-white châteaux and churches that dot this region, it served as a German base from 1915 to 1917, but sometimes housed soldiers from both sides of the conflict who were known to share cigarettes and create informal peace pacts.

The quarry provides a fascinating insight into the history of this département that lost more settlements than any other in World War I - a staggering 139 villages were destroyed. For French-speaking children, there are short Dragon Tours; otherwise, general tours in English at noon daily are suitable for all the family.

Walking around this atmospheric underground labyrinth brings into sharp focus the daily life of the 250 soldiers who stayed here at any one time – remnants of their activities include weapons but also everyday items such as plates still bearing traces of food. Blown-up photos of scenes inside the Cavern – found in German archives – also help bring the Caverne to vivid life.