Step off the Eurostar and into another world. Get lost wandering the old town of Lille, its pebbled laneways, secret passages and hidden cafes. Experience a different take on French art de vivre and a unique ambiance dating from Lille’s history as part of French Flanders.
Curious art spaces are hidden around every corner
Lively Lille combines heritage, culture and great food, making it ideal for a city break from London. Wander the atmospheric old town and fall off the beaten track following secret passages or captivating street art (follow the laneway off Rue de Weppes – a medieval lane that carried a water channel–). Other quirky sights are the stone angels denoting the divisions between houses on Rue de la Bourse, and the cannonballs embedded in the walls of 17th-century houses on the Rang du Beauregard, bearing witness to the Austrian attack of 1792. At the entrance to Lille Zoo, you’ll even find France’s only monument to carrier pigeons – in memory of birds, and pigeon-keepers, who lost their lives in World War One.
A few steps away... on avenue Willy Brandt, the Tripostal is a former mail-sorting centre transformed into a cultural hub. Lille hosts regularly changing contemporary art exhibitions and as the World Design Capital 2020 displays the very best of international design. Five minutes away on boulevard J.-B. Lebas, the old Saint-Sauveur train station has also been transformed into a lively focus of Lille culture. Its Bistrot St-So is among the city’s most lively and friendly spots, popular not only for its trendy soirées and concerts but for its lovely un-drenched terrace. We then follow the Avenue de la Liberté to the Palais des Beaux-Arts (Museum of fine Arts), the second-biggest fine arts museum in France after the Louvre in Paris. This majestic building is a lovely space crammed with masterpieces. Its 45-minute self-guided trails include Love etc. and the appetizing Lunchtime, which may inspire you to prolong your experience with a bite in the museum’s Atrium. And try a meat-free lunch in France’s top vegan city. Not far from the museum, on rue Gambetta, Annie’s Kitchen offers homemade vegetarian dishes from France and around the world.
Even in major sights such as the Palais des Beaux-Arts, you’ll find unexpected treasures such as Olga in a Fur Collar, in which you can perceive elements of a Cubist work Picasso previously painted on this canvas before recycling it.
Afternoon tea is best at Meert in the old town, tasting one of their creamy filled waffles. Winston Churchill, General de Gaulle and Jackie Kennedy loved their hint of Madagascan vanilla…Its iconic and evocative facade a favorite for photographers. As evening falls, the Grand Place will start to fill with people enjoying their aperitif. Try on of the local beers before heading to an Estaminet (traditional brasserie) for a meal. The nightlife is renowned in Lille, so settle in for the night. Try bars the Atomic Rabbit for its gin cocktails or L’Alchimiste.
An à la carte shopping itinerary, other Lille points of interet
How about meandering to Old Lille to discover its inspiring boutiques? In the highly fashionable rue de la Clef, at number 46, Julie Meuriss showcases her leather creations, with pretty, exclusive prints. And at 10 rue Bartholomé Masurel is Summer Camp, a shop as sweet as the colours of its pure household linens made in Hauts-de-France. A short detour to rue des Trois Molettes reaps decorative inspiration at Momentum, best known for its products by Lille designers. Then hop over to La Supérette on rue du Cirque, which stocks local designer brands, including comfy but super-fun ‘Pépère’ slippers in vintage, disco, zebra or shiny versions. And if you want to spoil your sweetheart, pop next door to Colonel Moutarde, a specialist in men’s accessories with the largest collection of bow ties in France.
Craft beers and pubs: the warmth of the "northerners"
The cosmopolitan Wazemmes market
"Fantastic shopping in Lille includes retro boutiques Nostalgie, La Mère Veille, Vintage Store and Funny Vintage, and the cosmopolitan Wazemmes Market."
