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- Prodigious chefs and numerous restaurants in Montreuil sur Mer to discover authentic French art de vivre
Perched on a promontory, Montreuil-sur-Mer is a delight to the eyes with its citadel, ramparts and cobbled streets lined with elegant mansions. But with its wealth of exceptional culinary products and creative dishes, this picturesque town can also be enjoyed with your tastebuds. This is a gastronomic destination that invites you to savour, taste and indulge within a stone’s throw of the sea.
Top 50 French destinations of choice for British holidaymakers
In January 2020, for the third consecutive year, the British newspaper The Times ranked Montreuil-sur-Mer among its “top 50 French destinations of choice for British holidaymakers”. It was well-deserved recognition for this fortified
town long appreciated by Tim Matthews, British owner of the guesthouse Maison 76, and by many of his compatriots.
There are countless reasons for this passionate love story. It was Douglas Haig and the British army’s HQ during the First World War. It’s steeped in history, surrounded by landscapes reminiscent of English gardens and handy for the beaches of the Opal Coast. But above all, it’s loved for its gastronomy and French art de vivre.
This miniature gastronomic capital ticks all the boxes for indulgence. Its number one asset? High–quality products bought directly from producers: organic vegetables, honey from local apiaries, clotted cream served with a ladle, fragrant fruit, aged cheeses... Take your basket to browse the Saturday-morning market on Place du Général de Gaulle, where you can meet the passionate farmers and producers who create these delicacies. The square and surrounding streets are filled with food shops with the same focus on quality.
Alexandre Gauthier, two-Michelin-starred chef at La Grenouillère in La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, uses his prodigious talents to make the very best of these products in his locavore dishes. This Montreuil native extended his domain over the town by also opening L’Anecdote and Froggy’s Tavern (froggystavern.fr), where you can feast on succulent spit-roasted meats.
Montreuil is full of welcoming eating establishments. From the humble Pot du Clape (lepotduclape.fr) to the luxurious Château de Montreuil (chateaudemontreuil.com), they all prove in their own inimitable way that the route to happiness is through the stomach.
Tim Matthews could talk for hours about this delightful destination. “Easy to access at only three and a half hours from London, and a foodies’ paradise!” he exclaims with a smile. His enthusiasm led to the creation of La Destination Gastronomique (ladestinationgastronomique. com), an association of restaurateurs and food professionals aiming to promote the town’s culinary excellence while highlighting its rich heritage.
Matthews was also behind the launch of the A Symphony of the Senses festival as well as Club Énergie Vélo, which organises gastronomic tours on electric bikes, chic picnics and unusual dinners, notably at the Citadelle. And the town’s ramparts offer an incredible panoramic view for your after-dinner stroll. Good food and old stones: the recipe behind Montreuilloise art de vivre…
Winter Wine Fest at the Arsenal de Montreuil: an iconic moment combining gastronomy and heritage
Each December, fifteen wine-growers from various regions (including Champagne, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Rhône and Loire) are invited by La Cave de Montreuil, in partnership with La Destination Gastronomique, to showcase their wines and share their passion at the Arsenal. Between tastings, epicureans can walk around the Citadel and take part in an evening tour by torchlight in a event celebrated for its convivial vibe. The Saturday-evening tasting dinner at L’Anecdote restaurant is the highlight of this gourmet weekend. Guests sample five dishes each accompanied by two paired wine vintages provided by the participating wine-makers. Each wine is presented by its producer, over the course of an evening rich in memorable gastronomic moments. Winter Wine Fest, December lacavedemontreuil.com
useful info
Staying over
Maison 76
With its four magnificent guestrooms, Tim Matthews’ Maison 76 is a must. It was named one of the 30 best B&Bs in France by The Sunday Times Travel magazine in 2019.
76 rue Pierre Ledent,
Montreuil-sur-Mer
La Grenouillère (Relais & Châteaux)
Overnight in one of the inn’s eight comfortable hunting huts during an interlude in the heart of nature.
19 rue de la Grenouillère,
La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil
Recently renovated, this charming 3-star hotel is nestled in a 16th century half-timbered house. Right next door is a cosy English bar and Le Patio restaurant.
21-23 rue Pierre Ledent,
Montreuil-sur-Mer
In a historic 19th century building, an elegant 3-star hotel with a decidedly British style.
Place Gambetta, Montreuil-sur-Mer
Eating out
Le Clan des Elfes
In a cobbled 18th century street, very close to the ramparts, this crêperie nestles in a picturesque little house. Concerts are held some evenings.
3 rue du Clape en Bas,
Montreuil-sur-Mer
In the restaurant of the Hermitage hotel, Alexandre Gauthier offers slightly simplified, forgotten recipes from La Grenouillère.
1 rue des Juifs (place de l’Église)
Montreuil-sur-Mer
Shopping
The pretty antique shops on rue Pierre Ledent. On July 14, there’s also an unmissable flea market in Montreuilsur-Mer, with more than 500 second-hand and antiques dealers from all over Europe.
Cheeses from northern Europe, other parts of France and beyond from Fromagerie Caseus.
14 place du Général de Gaulle,
Montreuil-sur-Mer
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