Any guidebook will tell you that the centre of historic Arras - accessible by train from Lille or a 70 minute car journey from Calais – has three major distinguishing sights to see: the Boves network of historic warren-like tunnels beneath the centre, the extensive view from the UNESCO-listed belfry soaring above town and of course, the architecture of its two main squares - Grand’Place and Place des Héros - where the picture-postcard Flemish-Baroque buildings align seamlessly like buildings in a wooden play set
Here are our top-tips on what to eat, where to eat it, events to attend and the locals’ choice of places to go.
Events in Arras - Blend in with the locals
The locals – or Arrageois as they are known – are big on tradition and all congregate for the town’s main fixtures…
The Fêtes d’Arras events take place over three consecutive weekends in August and September and include the Fête de l’Andouillette sausage-fest. You may be lucky enough to see the real locals on parade: a family of statuesque giant figures who – for special occasions - have been wheeled out of their home in the Hôtel de Ville for generations.
There are many more events on the Arras calendar besides, from the Main Square Festival (international music) and Arras Film Festival to everyone’s favourite… the huge French Christmas market.
Things to do in Arras - Off the beaten track
Greeter guided tours - Talk to a local about pride in his pays (his homeland) and you’re guaranteed to come away with a deepened sense of place. You can book a tour with an Arras native on greeters62.com. Free of charge, they’ll take you on a walking tour of town - taking in aspects you would otherwise have missed - to share their anecdotal and authentic perspective.
Take a walk - Blend in with the locals enjoying family walks over at the UNESCO-listed Citadelle Vauban and its woodlands, or if you want to head out of town, drive out to one or two of the white-stone villages to the west of Arras - Étrun, Hermaville, Mont-Saint-Éloi and Pas-en-Artois have all been awarded the Heritage Village label for their rural charm. Walks along the Scarpe river (from Saint-Laurent Blangy) are also popular with locals.
The Arts District - Head over to a part of
town that’s renowned for its creative vibe: the Quartier des Arts. As its name suggests, it boasts not only hipster boutiques and artists’ workshops (ceramics, glass, even a guitar-makers…) but a good number of culture-calls, not least the Fine Arts Museum. Alongside its permanent displays, it hosts frequent collections on loan from Versailles. There’s also the Hôtel de Guînes, not a hotel but a concert, exhibition and festival venue.
You’ll find an innovative concept-café here too - Le Rat Perché - combining good food with creative and cultural events, performances and workshops.
What to eat and where to eat in Arras?
A drink (or two) - To watch the world go by, locals enjoy their coffee-stops and apéritifs on the terraces of Place des Héros whereas later-night haunts include Le Studio 54 cellar-bar and atmospheric wine-bar L’Ambassade d’Arras.
The speciality - Andouillette (offal sausage) is the local speciality and can be enjoyed at reputable cellar-restaurant La Cave des Saveurs or at popular lunch stop L’Entre Nous, a traditional-dishes meets modern-ambience kind of place with a good value two-courses-and-coffee option. (Be quick - by early lunchtime, the place is already buzzing with local punters!)
Big on beer? - You could think about a bite at on-trend Au Comptoir
de Fred, serving a beer and ‘tartines’ combo (toasts and artisan breads with deliciously creative toppings).
Food Shopping in Arras
Local food specialists - You can’t help but notice that the queue extends outside at Domont et Fils bakery (Rue des Trois Visages) where locals are buying their daily artisan loaves and viennoisere (croissants and other French breakfast goodies). And if you want to couple your baguette with a local cheese, try the Prairie fromagerie in the same road for a Petite Mimolette de Roncq, Vieux Lille, Pavé Bleu or Ecume de Wimereux....
For sweet treats - The locals will all point you in the direction of Pâtisserie Thibaut for its selection of favourite French fancies plus two other sweet things you’ll only find in Arras: the Coeur d’Arras heart-shaped gingerbread biscuit - one of the town’s best-loved specialities - and the pretty packets of praline chocolate rats: so similar is the name of the animal to the name of the town that the rat has long been a town trademark.
The market’s a must - If you’re here on a Saturday, don’t miss the locals in full-on food frenzy at the market on Place des Héros and Grand’Place (pretty well-established… it’s been a local fixture for 1,000 years!).
Where to stay in Arras?
In town, best beds for the night include and the Maison d’hôte (B&B) La Corne d’Or.
Further afield, you can find a luxurious bed for the night at boutiquey B&B Plumes et Coton, a charming chambre d’hôte in Ecurie, 5km from Arras.
And something to take home...
Drop in to see the ceramics painter Christelle Perrier in action, the only producer of the distinctive blue Bleu d’Arras style, following in the footsteps of the 18th century Delemer sisters. At a quiet address on Place des Héros, it’s relatively undiscovered by tourists and as such an ornament, decoration or item of tableware is just about as authentic a purchase as you will find.
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